원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 at West Cwm
C3 at Lhotse face
C4 at South Col.

Summit party left on 29 May 9:00 pm and 11:00 pm: 9:00 pm by Mathy and Prittie and Obert, very slow and 2 Kami Rita's. Mathy and Prittie turned back because Mathy decided safer for him to retreat and Prittie as guide with him at 8550m at 5:00 am while Obert and 2 Kami Rita's went on to top. 11:00 pm all other summiters left C4. 11:00 pm starters on top 12:15 pm; 2 Kami Rita's on top at 12:30 pm and Obert and Benitez at 1:00 pm on 30th. All returned for night at C4 and 31st to C2.

No serious frostbite because waited for good weather and this summit day was best day on the mountain. Slight breeze on top but warm in sun. Tejas took a 3 lb. guitar to top and strummed it briefly.

Oxygen:
used by summit party members in C3 on night of 26/27 May
climbing to C4, sleeping in C4 for 4 nights to and down
from their highest point and all the way down to C2 except
Holt and Mathy, who stopped using it at Col in descent
by Sherpas sleeping in C4 for 4 nights, to top and down to C4 (but not in it).

Members who left expedition early:
Bright left 26 April to get married
Murphy left 25 April - not strong enough

Sherpa Summiters
Lhakpa Rita, Thami, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X2
Kami Rita (Topke), Thami, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X1
Mingma Chhiri, Thami, Everest X4
Kami Rita, Thami, Everest X4
Tshering Dorje, Kharikhola, Everest X4
Chhiri/Tshering, Thamo, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
Pemba Tenzing, Phurte, 27, 1st 8000er