원정 개요

All members except Gibans found conditions too windy to go higher than C2 according to their policy of climbing conservatively when they had no Sherpas helping them and were using no oxygen, so they went only to C2, from where Mike Marolt, Steve Marolt and Oates skied down to ABC on 21 April. They took 1 hour from C2 to C1, stopped in C1 to rest and skied in 12 hours from C1 to ABC. On 26 April, Callahan, Dunnett and Gile skied down from C1 to ABC. Now climb finished for these 8 members.

But Gibans was now moving in dependently from them. He had 1 Sherpa to put up his tent at C3 and help carry gear and he had his own oxygen supply. He went up for his summit push, arriving at C1 on 27 May, C2 on 28th, 29th to C3 and summited alone on 30th. He used oxygen his oxygen sleeping in C2 and all way to top and down to 7300m and slept in C1 30th. Left ABC and BC 31st.