원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 at West Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col.

Had to wait 5 days in BC for the auspicious 17 April for pujas. 30 April down to BC when big storm hit and tore up tents. Up again in early May but down again. 16th May up again to C1, 17/5 to C2, stayed in C2 waiting for good weather. Stayed at C4 on 25th and night of 25th went for top at 8:30 pm; Shephard and Boice (stopped at South Summit because fingers threatened to get frostbitten; Nawang Sherpa, who climbed with Shephard also turned back with him). Apa on top at 3:40 am; Hoffman 7:30 am, O'Connor at 7:40 am and rest of Sherpas in between; Vadasz at 6:00 am and Burch at 7:05 am. Hoffman on summit had oxygen mask problem and took over 8 hours to descent from top to balcony; had fallen over, then crawled and slid to balcony, where Apa came up from C4 with a new mask (probably about 3 pm) and back to C4 at 7:00 pm. Managed to descend on feet but with considerable help by Sherpas.

Oxygen: Summit team: all members of summit bid team used oxygen climbing from C3 to C4, in C4, to their high points to C4 and in C4. Hoffman (frostbitten) also used it in descent from C4 to bottom of Lhotse Face.

All Sherpas in summit bid used oxygen in C4, to top to and in C4.

Members who left early:
Huss and Smith left 24 May to return to work
Rawley reached BC only, left 24 Apr cold, unhappy, mountain not for him