원정 개요

C1 at 5943m top of Icefall
C2 at 6492m in Western Cwm
C3 at 7315m on Lhotse Face
C4 at 7900m at South Col.

1st summit bid on 21 May, reached 8300m and down to C4 because wind and cold, had started at 7:45 pm of 20st. 7 members and 3 Sherpas: Ram Chandra Shrestha, Hari Bahadur Basnet, Lok Bahadur Thapa Magar, Shree Bahadur Tamang, Bhim Bahadur Bhujel, Gyanendra Laudari and Lhakpa, Pemba Gyalzen and Ang Nima (no 8000ers before). Returned to C4 3:00 am.

Next bid was successful by Lok Bahadur Thapa Magar, Sunil Singh Rathor, Dut Bahadur Budha Magar, Hari Bahadur Basnet and same 3 Sherpas. Left C4 9:45 pm 21st and on top 6:15 - 8:15 am (some delayed by oxygen problem) and returned to C4 at 4:00 pm and slept there.

2nd successful bid left C4 25th 9:45 pm and on top 7:15 am - 8:15 am. Returned to C2 to sleep at 6:45 pm. Oxygen used sleeping in C3 by some and by all summit party in C4 to top and down to C4 by most, some down to balcony by both summit porters.

Bhim Bahadur Gurung died coming down Icefall just below C1; fell into 150 ft deep crevasse, hit his head, spinal chord broken; body recovered in 4 hours (at 11:00 am) by 5 men and body brought to KTM for cremation on 28 May.

This expedition put brass Nepali flag on the summit [placed by Lhakpa Gelu].

Sherpa Summiters:

22/5: Pemba Gyalzen, Thamo, 22/7/69, Cho Oyu X1
Ang Nima, Junbesi, Solu, 6/6/81, 1st 8000er
Lhakpa, Khijiphalate VDC, Okhaldhunga, 19/8/72, 1st 8000er

26/5: Pasang Tendi, Kharikhola, 19/6/74, Everest X1
Nawang Zimba, Beding, 1955, 1st 8000er