원정 개요

BC at 5300m lowest of all BCs
C1 at 6050m top of Icefall
C2 at 6400m W Cwm
C3 at 7100m Lhotse face (lower than others)
C4 at 7950m South Col
C5 at 8400m below balcony between rocks (2 tents).

In C5 4 people (all the summiters) in tents; arrived 3:45 pm on 20 May. Had to stay in C5 2 nights because of strong winds preventing 3 Sherpas to come up from C4 to join 3 men and 3 Sherpas at C5. On 21 May these Sherpas did come up bringing more oxygen with them. 3:15 am 22 May all 9 summiters left C5 for top and all arrived at top about 9:00 am and took over 3 hours to get to top because 40 people mired down because 3 members of Adventure International Expedition team were extremely slow. All people behind were in danger if weather turned bad and Miura had to wait 30 min in one spot, 15 minutes at another. 3 Adventure International were first in line and did not allow any one to pass them while they themselves waited 20 minutes. "I thought they were pretty bad" (Gota). Gota was first in this party and father right behind. Yuichiro Miura felling strong ("was plenty of oxygen," Gota). Yuichiro Miura "it was end of very long journey" when haw was at top. His oxygen ran out 50m, below top so "reached summit without oxygen" (joke) and "felt very peaceful and very happy" (Ishikawa in 2002, being carried up, etc., "very bad"). Slept in C4 that night; got there at 6:30 pm, 15 minutes before sunset. No traffic jam coming down. Had spent 45 minutes on top and left 1:00 pm and went down slowly to be safe. His oxygen had run out without his knowing but soon resumed use.

All members should have arrived KTM 26 May, but Russian pilot demanded $6000 cash for others to come down that day.

Igarashi and Yuta Miura went through mountain's Icefall once.

Oxygen use - total bottles used: 86

Yuichiro Miura, sleeping in C1 11 May; sleeping in C2 and all way C2 to top and back to C2 and in C2.

Gota Miura and Muraguchi used it 14 May in C2 sleeping there in last 2 days in C2, C3 sleeping, climbing 7700m to top and back to 7700m.

Oxygen Sherpas:

2 Sherpas with Miuras, Nga Temba and Domey, Tshering Sherpas, sleeping in C3; went to Col with Miura and Domey, returned to C2.

Oxygen Summit Sherpas: sleeping in C4 (except Norbu climbing from C4 to top and stopped in descent) - other 5 summit Sherpas from C4 to top and down to C4.

Used a lot of oxygen, but without it we would have died.

Sherpa summiters:
Chuwang Nima, Thami, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X1
Phur Gyalzen, Thami, (2027), 1st 8000er
Nima Nuru, Thami, (21/7/2038), Everest X1, Chuwang Nima's brother
Norbu, Beding, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X6, Lhotse and Gasherbrum II
Na/Nga Temba, Sikli, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X2
Pemba Nuru, Beding, (7/4/2036), 1st 8000er