원정 개요

BC at usual site.
C1 at NE Col - normal site
Highpoint at C1.

May 20: Fuess, Haase, Popp, Porsche, Sontag, Von Preysing and Pemba Sherpa left at 04:00 hours. Haase, Porsche, Von Preysing and Pemba reached summit around 13:00 hours and stayed about 45 minutes. Weather was good with mild wind. Lafaille was on summit may be about 2 hours before. Other summiters were from Saxon expedition and Swedish one member with Sherpa.

Fuess reached about 7700m very slow, returned to C3. Popp felt very cold; he did only about 30 minutes climbing and retreated. Sotang also returned with Fuess. Porsche bivouacked at 7700m, scared to go down so decided to bivouac. Next day 21st found frostbite on finger tips of both hands. Von Preysing was slow on way up. While descending about 14:00 hours, he fell about 50m, bumped on one Saxon member and both tumbled down, but not injured. Von Preysing in fact had problem of disorientation - probably sight problem. He was not in good balance while walking. Von Preysing was supported with oxygen brought up by Sherpas. Getting him down was a difficult work. The team had to wait for more ropes and oxygen; the other Swedish climber also helped. It was very cold above (-50 degrees). To get him to C3 took about 7 hours. On 22nd down to BC and flown to KTM on 23rd by helicopter and left Nepal on 24th. Von Preysing got frostbite both hands, nose, right ear and toes - very badly. Haase said total recovery may be difficult.

- Binsack (Miss) up to C2 exhausted and back pain
- Haase, Karina to C3 - vomited, could not eat - did not continue
- Rackl accompanied Binsack to BC - no time for climbing
- Sontag and Fuess to 7700m, together went down
- Vedani went up to 7000m - it was difficult for him to climb
- Popp and Vedani accompanied two frostbitten members to KTM on 23rd
- Binsack and Rackl left BC 25th for KTM - they left Nepal on 27th
- rest of members will leave Nepal on 30th