원정 개요

High point at 8000m at summit plateau.

13 April 2 Spaniards went to C1 and had to stay there because of deep snow. 17 April 2 Spaniards with 2 French members and their 2 Sherpas, climbed up to 6600m, up 400m steep rock - then many rocks were falling and retreated to ABC. 23rd all 3 members (& 2 French) returned to C1. 24th 3 members climbed to 6800m in late afternoon; very steep rock and again down, Alvarez to ABC, Rodriguez and Falahey to C1 to sleep. 25th Rodriguez and Falahey to ABC. 27th all 3 members up from C1 for summit push. 28th 3 members reached 6800m, then were stopped by strong winds so back to C1. Spent 3 days in C1 waiting for better weather, then down to ABC and climb finished, at least for 2 Spaniards. But Falahey, who had arrived after 2 Spaniards, stayed on at ABC with Australians led by Paul Carr.

Alvarez went over to Everest BC to attempt Lhotse.

19 May - Falahey: he stayed on after Spaniards left on 2-3 May. Australian police were his friends and shared their BC services, but never really climbed with them. Went up to C1 several times, but wind terrible for 7 straight days. 11 May to C2 at 7000m and slept there one night. 12 May to C3 and slept there at 7500m. 13 May summit push alone and got to 8100m, on to summit plateau, then down because several more hours climb to highest point and back. Fingers had started freezing (gloves too bulky for jumar and had to take out bulky inner gloves and then fingers were getting very cold). Down to C3 and put hands in hot water; now alone in Amical tent since German tent mate had gone down. 14 May waited for break in then down to C2, stayed an hour, down to C1, packed that up too knowing climb finished. Was having vomitting problem and feeling very bad. Left ABC and BC 15 May.