원정 개요

BC below smaller of 2 lakes on NGS Map
ABC at huge stone at top of moraine
C1 just above Lingtren Pass on East Ridge
Biv on East Ridge.

From ABC climbed rock spur followed by Lenser in 1962 to Lingtren La on fixed ropes; snowy weather. From C1 3 members climbed alpine-style on ridge, which was quite difficult in unstable snow, many cornices & some rock pitches. Made biv this night of 16th May. 17th hoping perhaps to go to top, are likely to have a 2nd biv. Wind changed from north to now out of south with clouds, and then snowfall from south. No fixed rope here so retreated to C1 in very little visuability Slept in C1. 18th more bad weather so down to ABC removing fixed rope in descent and 19th all in BC. Climb now finished: Tired, bad weather and time running out. 4 members had left BC about 16th May because of fixed departure date from Nepal.

Route farther right than usual route; much safer but longer; on this route Italians had no snow avalanches or falling seracs as usual route.