원정 개요

BC at 4200m grass, very good
C1 at 5000m above glacier at start of South Face
C2 at 6100m on South Face
C3 at 6800m on South Face
C4 at 7400m (1 tent on ice ridge).

BC to C1 20 to 24 hours walk of about 5 km but put far from face because no snow cover, good water and good rest here possible. 19 April to BC because storm (strong wind and snow)

Spent one night in C4 only, night of 15 May because have to spend 12 days in BC because of continuous snowfall which even covered BC with 6 inches snow and C1 1m. C2 tents under 4m snow and had to dig them out and repair or replace them: 2 days to remake C2. 15 May 6 members to C4 crowded in 1 small tent with knees up to chins with 2 Sherpas in C3.

Members never used oxygen but team's 2 safety Sherpas used from C3 to top only (saving oxygen from Japanese if problem). Sherpas to top from C3.

Had plan for second summit attack but this spring's bad weather and C4 site tiny spot on ice ridge and had to use slings to secure it. Summiters back in BC 17 May. Rope fixed all way from 5700m to 7700m and just below summit 100m. Japanese summiters reached top at 2:40 pm and returned to C2 to sleep at 7:20 pm. Sherpas summiters were on top at 9:00 am and returned to C2 at 9:00 pm.

Sherpa summiters:
Lhakpa Rita, Phortse, Everest X1, Lhotse X1
Palden Namgyal, Phortse, 31 years old, Everest X1, Lhotse X1, Manaslu 2001