원정 개요

After BC, spent several days recce on northeast & east of south of Shey Shikhar to pass of 5300m south of mountain. Very loose rock, very scary, looked very dangerous from hanging glacier through mountain difficult. Then retreated to east to Pt 5602m directly north of Shey Shikhar & found it very loose rock ridge with downsloping slabs of bad rock; very dangerous.

Back to BC & abandoned attempt on Shey Shikhar & turned attention to what members believe is Tso Karpo Kang: climber from south up rock wall (where found Japanese rope pitons) to a saddle on 28th. 29th 4 members & Nima Tashi Sherpa, Naga Dorje Sherpa & Krishna Bahadur Tamang up SW Buttress, 3000 ft ice; at about 5800m 3 members turned back because 2 members were either sick or not strong while Tabin & 3 Nepalese climbed SW Ridge which became less steep & on top at 1:30 pm of 29th & back to C1/biv at 5300m at 4:30 pm. 30th Tabin & Squier to BC; Ruoss & Normand to peak 5950m high just SW of C1 & SE of Kang & Tabin & Squier to BC. Ruoss & Normand 1st Oct climbed to top of Tso Karpo Kang by slightly different route & back to BC on 2nd.

Tabin, 2 Sherpas and 2 Warings & Sinclair on 1st Oct to a camp at 4800m south of Kang Yaja & on 2nd on top via 1000 vertical feet of vertical rock scrambling, icefall 400-500 ft high to sloping glacier to snow ridge to south ridge to summit. Warings & Sinclair spent night at 4800m camp while while Tabin & Sherpas to BC. 3rd all in BC & climbing finished. Returned via Shey Gompa.

Tso Karpo Kang (6556m) (2nd & 3rd ascents)
29 Sep (SW Ridge) by
Tabin, Nima Tashi Sherpa, Naga Dorje Sherpa, Krishna Bahadur Tamang
01 Oct (SE Face) by
Ruoss, Normand

Kang Yaja (5962m) (1st ascent)
02 Oct (S Ridge) by
Waring III, Waring IV, Sinclair, Nima Tashi Sherpa, Naga Dorje Sherpa