원정 개요

BC at Yalung glacier
C1 wwas series of 2 bivouacs
High point on West face (left side).

Went to 5400m for depot then went for acclimatization on West Face, on Japanese route, up to 6500m, making route for Japanese but without rope (Japanese later fixed all this route). Then to BC 14. 16 Oct Cepelkova and Kolouch left BC for N (not NNW) Pillar, climbed 500m up pillar to 5900m, then back to BC because of loose snow on rock so dangerous. Now decided to divide into 2 teams.

1st team Cepelkova, [Patak] and Otta left BC 19 Oct to try new route on left side of NW Face. Slept in ABC at 5400m. 20th started up mountain in series of bivouacs: 1st biv at 5800m on 20 Oct: 2nd biv at 6000m on 21 Oct; 3rd biv on 22nd and 23rd Oct at 6200m, 4th biv on 24 Oct at 6600m. 25th Oct had to turn back because no time left. Slow progress because technically more difficult than expected with 60-degrees steep, danger overhanging seracs, avalanching and wind. 25 Oct traversed to right to West Face (to Japanese route) to descend to BC same day late night.

2nd team Jackovic, Hromadka and Kolouch left BC 20 Oct for West Face and made only bivs: 1st biv at 6100m; 2nd biv at 6500m on 22nd Oct. 24 Oct both started for top at 5:00 am, Hromadka turned back 100m above biv, afraid of frostbite; Kolouch up to top alone in afternoon (about 3:00 pm) and back to 2nd biv. 25th evening all members back in BC. On 21 Oct Jackovic turned back from 1st biv because of not serious stomach and altitude problems.