원정 개요

BC on Yalung Glacier east of Oktang
C1 on side glacier southeast of main Yalung Glacier.
C3 on glacier northwest of mountain
High point on West Face.

From Oktang monastery 2-1/2 hour walk. Made attempt to reach summit: Hayashi, Takeushi and Ang Phuri Lama left C3 at 3:00 am and arrived at 6700m of NW Face at 7:00 am. Then big avalanche and very strong wind, so down to C3. Very deep, soft snow: very bad snow conditions making climbing dangerous (next day stronger wind). Same day down to C1 and climb finished. 22 Oct to BC. Murata to C2 only, very tired and not acclimatizing well.

Fixed rope in three sections above C1, below C2 (where there were crevasses) and above C3 in complex seracs and crevasses avalanche-prone area above C3.

Murata left BC 21 Oct because his holiday ending.