원정 개요

BC at Pangpema
No climbing attempt (except Kresel's climb of minor face).

North Face constantly avalanched (15-30 of seracs, ice stoves, "everything" pending) so impossible, so went to East Face, which had thought could be descent route. But East Face also very dangerous because of 20-50m serac, so no climbing attempt here either.

Kresnal with Marence and Pasang Tenzing Sherpa belaying him as he attempted overhanging South Face of East Ridge; face steeply overhanging (120 degrees), mixed ice and rock with big ice at top. Kresal kept falling and going back up; all day trying and finally succeeded on 6th try (with altitude gain only 100m) to 5600m. Made this climb from one ABC at 5000m on glacier SE of his face and south of Pangpema BC.

Doctor got to BC 3 Oct, immediately said she had typhus and left immediately by helicopter so team had to wait at BC 10 days to learn if they too had typhus but did not develop symtoms. She was frightened and psychosomatic symptoms; this delayed attempt on Kirat Chuli.

"Maoists" Confrontation: Kresal and Haston flew by helicopter to BC with expedition's funds while rest of team's members trekked from Taplejung. On 28th Sept, one day's trek above Taplejung at Chhiruwa Village on Tamur River, they were stopped by four armed men (not in Maoist uniform)) whom local people said were probably Maoists: they said they knew exactly how much expedition had paid to Nepal govt. for permits ($13,000) and they demanded payment of this sum plus their own "tax" on each member. Members said they had no money with them. They were allowed to proceed after having been locked in a lodge for a short time, but told they would have to pay on their way back to Taplejung airfield, so expedition flew out by helicopter from Ghunsa, well north of Taplejung.