원정 개요

BC at Hinku Glacier
ABC at Khare Glacier's plateau at bottom of West Face.

7 Oct attempt to reach top from ABC by Jezovsek and Kovac to 5750m on West Face and then lot of brief snow showers in unsettled weather, so down to ABC that day and BC on 8 Oct.

Next attempt on 14 Oct from BC and 15 Oct from ABC by Golob, Jost and Samec at 3:00 am; up face to 6500m and bivouac after 19 hours from bottom of face (5600m), arrived at biv point 10:00 pm (biv on small col). 16 Oct from biv up North[west] Ridge to top; left biv 8:00 am and on top at 9:36 am. Weather clear these two days but windy and cold.

Also 16 Oct other 3 members up from ABC via North Ridge; reached 6000m where snow conditions terrible: deep powder snow, so down to ABC. Summiters down to BC on 17 Oct.

18 Oct 2nd group from ABC via line 200m to right of 1st group's line up West Face, moved very light and reached biv col: now started snowing and had to turn back to ABC and got to ABC 2:00 am of 19th amid powder snow and avalanche. All down to BC 29 Oct and climb finished.

Face difficult technically but main problem was loose snow. First problem was to reach plateau where to put ABC: very steep and broken seracs in icefall blocked more direct way, so had to climb up rocks at foot of point 6091m, up rocky section and down to plateau.