원정 개요

BC at Imja Glacier's north side, south of Island Peak.
C1 at peak east of Imja's Glacier and Lhotse Shar Glacier junction
C2 at ice cave at top of 2nd Glacier.

Before going to Numri, expedition divided into 2 teams and one went first to Island Peak while other team went directly to Numri. Hoffmann, Stueck and Tauchnitz summited Island Peak on 29 Oct and then went to Numri; other 4 members meanwhile set up C1 and C2.

Summit bid on 7 Nov by Rieck, Schmidt and Miss Schubert: they had already fixed 200m of rope to 6350m on 6th Nov slept in C2: and they made summit push on 7th, fixed 150m from 6350m to top. Summit party left C2 for top at 7:30 am on 7th and reached top, after slow progress and fixing rope, at 3:00 pm; descent to C2 to sleep also delayed by removing ropes as they descended.

A second summit party of Hoffman, Miss Morche and Stueck had not gone above C2 for summit bid because Hoffman and Miss Morche were mildly sick (stomach trouble for Hoffman, bad cough for Morche). Route was difficult up sections of deep snow such as 2nd Glacier; no good anchors, 30 degree average steepness of route. There was also avalanche danger: Morche's backpack was hit by falling ice chunk at about 5900m as large section of 2nd Glacier seen in attached postcard broke off with loud crash while expedition was climbing; also slab avalanche danger.

The altitude for C1 5662m is taken from National Geographic Mount Everest map, which gives summit altitude of 6641m. But Schneider Khumbu map gives 5680m for C1 site and 6677m for summit.

Numri is south of Cho Polu and east of Chhukung villages.