원정 개요

First attempted N Face, where it would have been necessary to fix rope at least as high as 7200m. Team had fixed 1000m by the time Bisson and Zortea got to 6800m on 6 Oct, and they did not have enough gear to continue fixing at this rate. Team then attempted the NW Ridge from French expedition's base camp, and all members got to 5300m on 9 Oct. That night there was heavy snowfall and now they had no more time left for their climb. (It had been agreed between this party and the French for the NW Ridge that the two would climb together on the ridge, but the liaison officer with the Italian-French group would not permit this party to go to the ridge. A ridge attempt was made only after the LO had left the expedition).

Necessary to fix rope to 7200m or so on steep face and had not enough equipment. Had already put in 1000m of rope. Made new camp for NW Ridge route at French BC on 8th Oct. On 9th Oct reached C1 on French route at 5300m, but that night heavy snowfall and no time left for more climbing.

Had been forced by LO to stop at Pisang village on approach march and not go on French expedition's NW Ridge route as had been agreed in KTM amongst leaders and ministry. Then LO left Italians and they could go to French route but turned out to be too late.