원정 개요

BC at above glacier junction
C1 at Chago Glacier
C2 at below Makalu La

Could not make C2 at Makalu La because trekking agent's tent not good enough for wind-swept pass. 10 Oct could go down and went to BC because of dangerous snow conditions.

7th Oct made first attempt on summit and almost to Makalu La (to 7300m) by both members and both Sherpas at 12:00 noon, too late for summit bid and down to C2 that night. Then bad weather on 8th and 9th and now not possible to go up or down because of avalanching. 10 Oct to BC.

Decided to make 2nd bid and go very fast with ropes already fixed between C2 and 7300m. 12 Oct 8:00 am both Sherpas and Ugarte started up (Sofia remained in BC) and in C2 at 5:30 pm, very cold, very windy but loads very light. 13 Oct 2:00 am 3 climbers up from C2 in dark and no room: climbed on East Face of South Ridge to 20-25m below top and here joined ridge and to top via ridge 2:00 pm. Ugarte exhausted at top; Sherpas also very tired at top. "I don't know how we reached the summit, but we did" and stayed there only 10-15 minutes and down from top on east side of ridge because very steep down ridge. Reached C2 at sunset 6:00 pm and slept there. Down from C2 5:30 am at sunrise to BC at 11:00 am. Left BC same day because Sherpas had to get to KTM quickly for another group. Down via Hillary BC, to Jark Kharka that night, then down to Tashigaon. 18 Oct arrived Khandbari and 19th Tumlingtar and KTM.