원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 on Western Cwm
C3 on West Face
C4 on West Face below couloir.

After placing gear at C4 site 23 Sept, down to BC for rest. Left C4 for top at 4:00 am and reached top 9:20 am in very clear weather (could see into W Cwm) and Japanese down to C2, Lhakpa Rita to BC.

8 Oct from C4 7:15 am only because very strong wind and small avalanche had waited for better conditions. Amano had left C4 at midnight and reached entrance to couloir (8100m) at 2.30 cms down to C4 at 3:00 am because strong wind and small avalanches came down couloir and climbers had to stay at one side of it or the other. Then he went up again with other 2 members and Sherpa to summit. Reached top 12:35 pm (Kato and Mitani) and 1:10 pm (Amano and Sherpa). All in this summit party slept in C3 that night.

Oxygen: Amano never used it. Other members sometimes sleeping in C3; all 5 sleeping in C4, climbing from C4 to top and back to C4 only; both sherpas sleeping in C4, up to top and back to C4 only.