원정 개요

BC at 5000m of mountain, grass for yaks but no water
C1 at col between East Ridge & North Face
High point at gully on North Face.

From BC Van der Aar went up North Face on right side of icefall to Col between East Ridge and North Face and slept in C1 27 Oct. 28 Oct to BC because deep snow above. Van der Aar and Sherpa Kami Rita to C1. 1 Nov kept going up through deep snow covered by thin layer ice which was very tiring so down at 6250m and down to BC.

Thiery alone on 30 Oct from BC up North Face via small ridge east of other's route up to 6000m at top of ridge to see if less technical route that way or another way (but van der Aar's route not technical, he says).

25 Oct leader got stomach trouble and no climbing.