원정 개요

C4 at South Col
High point at South Summit.

Slow getting to South Col because much snowfall. Also 4 Oct more snow. 5 Oct summit attack by Usami, Katayama, Phurba Chhiri, his brothers Lhakpa and Da Tendi, but could not go higher than South Summit because of many dangerous cornices. Left C4 at 1:00 am knee deep snow above, reached South Summit at 1:00 pm, down to C4 at 4:00 pm.

No second attempt because Usami and Katayama didn't have strength to try again.

On 4 Oct waited in C4 for summit bid because strong wind that day. Fixed 3000m rope on Lhotse Face, up to C4 and to South Summit. Oxygen used sleeping in C3, up to C4, sleeping in C4, to South Summit down to C4 and sleeping C4 by 2 Japanese; Sherpas used it sleeping in C4, to South Summit and again sleeping in C4.

6 Oct all to C2 and climb finished. Katayama left BC 7 Oct to go to his work in Japan.