원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 at West Cwm
C3 at Lhotse face
Ev C4 at South Col
Lhotse C4 at Lhotse Face.

Had problem setting C1 in good place: 1st one unstable, 2nd one could be hit by avalanche, if not well over to right. Lhotse Face in very good condition but needed ice screws in some parts; elsewhere snow not too deep. In Western Cwm deep snow came below C2, but above no snow problem.

1st went to Everest: arrived at South Col on 2nd Oct and at 11:00 pm Burda, Nicleviez, Mingma Nuru and Mingma Tshering started up. At about 8200-8300m dangerous snow slab avalanche: Burda and Mingma Nuru carried down 150m with slab but not hurt; wind 40-50 kph blowing snow in face and -10 degrees C. Down to C4 at 4:00 am 3 Oct. Waited that day for attempt again that night but 2 of 3 Sherpas went down. Again at 11:00 pm wanted to try again, but wind 60 km/h, too strong and very cold (-30 degrees C inside tent).

4 Oct moved C4 to Lhotse Face 7850m and afternoon "weather was wonderful." Pitched Lhotse C4 at 12:00 noon. Rested all day and Burda and Niclevicz left camp at 3:00 am; were tired so let Koreans open route ahead of them. Climbed 100m behind Koreans and arrived at Lhotse top 9:30 am and stayed 2-1/2 hours enjoyed view and taking pictures. Down to C2 at 6:30 pm (after dark using head lamps), very tired. Climb now finished.

Oxygen use in C4 (South Col) for sleeping and awake by Burda, Niclevicz and Wellner (1st night - then left), Mingma Nuru, Mingma Tshering; also up from Col and back there - used while moving C4 (Mingma Tshering moved camp with them and used oxygen), then he went down while 2 Brazilians stayed in Lhotse C4. Brazilians did not use it in Lhotse C4, but did going to Lhotse summit and back to Lhotse C4 only.

Souza wanted to do some climbing, but his base camp duties let him go only into Icefall.