원정 개요

Porters left Ochoa and Guggemos (who went to BC together but climbed independently) at Hidden Valley north of French Pass, so Ochoa had to ferry his 4 loads to BC in 4 days, thus delaying BC arrival. Porters left because of deep snow.

Went once to NE Col C1 site to leave gear and then acclimatized in nearby Hongde (summit on Sep 22) and Sita Chuchura (no top because not in good condition, 19 Sept to 6400m). Returned to BC 25 Sept, when last burst of monsoon snowfall for 2 days of very heavy snowfall (1 m snow on NE Col in 24-30 hours) and then perfect weather. Plan was to go to top non-stop. Left BC 4 Oct (with Guggemos) and from C1 took his tent, etc. up to C2 sites 6700-6800m on NE Ridge. Kept going up (with Guggemos). Had agreement with French that French would make trail to C3 and Guggemos and Ochoa make it above since none experienced and with French in C3 at 7500m. Ochoa there at 4:00 am and Guggemos 5:00-5:30 am. This was key place to decide whether to follow ridge on make traverse around false summit; decided to to make traverse but snow conditions too dangerous from wind slabs, so abandoned that line to top and returned nearly to C3 to try ridge but it covered by deep powder snow. So both abandoned attempt and Ochoa in BC in 5 hours of the morning; Guggemos and French also came down. Climb finished because maybe 2-3 weeks before wind and snow conditions good enough.