원정 개요

Purpose of climb to make film for Basque Television.

C1 occupied 2 nights, then carried to 7000m as C2. On 28 Nov down to ABC to rest. 2 Dec from ABC to C2 at 7000m and 3 Dec to top by Beloki and Inurrategi. Arribas had gone to C1 on 25th and down to ABC on 27th while other two moved camp to 7000m. Arribas stayed during remainder of climb in ABC because this his first time at high altitude. Summit day was clear but very cold and windy (40 kmh); in tent at 7000m was -25 degrees C at night and outside -30 to -40 degrees during day. Fixed no rope except to repair short stretches of autumn ropes in ice. Exactly 6 hours 7000m to true summit and 2 hours back to 7000m; started from C2 at 7:00 am. From just below plateau to top 1-1/2 hours on hard snow and many wind slabs on plateau. No avalanching during climb. Saw Everest and Lhotse from top.