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BC at same site as top and Chamoux teams
1st C1 at North Col for North Buttress attempt
2nd C1 at normal route
C2 at normal route.

Abandoned N Pillar route because of danger followed by storms; set off on alpine-style ascent of standard route on 9th May. Weight loss fatigue and sickness saw only Groom and Dignan arrive at 2nd bivouac at 7100m. On 11 May McDowell and Dignan set off at 3:00 am for summit. McDowell arrived at summit at 9:05 am - an amazing solo climb from situation of the biv. Dignan suffering fatigue refused to turn back until finally at around 4:00 pm he turned back at over 8100m just short of summit and made it back to biv at 7:00 pm in "dark" (fax report by Rick White).

Groom: in the 2 weeks after BC arrived, had to look at W Buttress and Groom 22 April reached 6000m and decided rock fall too dangerous and back to BC where other 3 waiting. They went to have look for themselves but not above C1 because of heavy snowfall and strong winds (reached C1 on 1 May and down to BC 2 May). Decided on "alpine" ascent of normal route and waited for good weather. 9th May all 5 men to C1. 10th set out for C2 and Rick White and McDowell turned back at 6500m tired and uninterested and Ball turned back at 6840m with headache. Groom and Dignan reached 7100m, where pitched another 3:00 am on 11th and Groom and Dignan went for to carrying nothing and Groom in perfect weather and went past false summit. Dignan struggled with fatigue and altitude and gave up at 8100m. Groom got to C2 at noon, waited for Dignan who arrived and collapsed at 7:00 pm and both spent night. Dignan very tired during descent but altitude problem gave and both back in BC 12th. Everyone left BC 15 May.