원정 개요

BC near Mingbo
C1 at start of SW Ridge (traditional site)
C2 at crest of Yellow Tower (traditional site).

Been to BC earlier than 13th March, then went to Island Peak which only Haszko failed to climb. Huge amount of fixed ropes from many years ago as well as recent climbs. 4th April summiters had 7 days climb: 5 up and 2 down: had bad cloudy weather and others saw them towards upper slopes and then disappeared and thought to be dead where as had climbed to top half hour before dark and descended that night to a bivouac in topmost serac band at 20,000 ft.

2nd summit party took 6 days to climb with only 1 day in descent with biv in natural ice cave at start of mushroom ridge. Last biv reached at noon, left at 3:30 am next day and on top 1:30 pm.

Very slow because Simpson had hurt his foot 2 days before leaving England, had toothache and sciatica. More difficult climb than Delaney had expected: worrying about route: "descent horrendous abseiling down those rocks."