원정 개요

Oct 19: Kono, Mogi and four Sherpas started from C2 at 04:00 hours. Summit at 15:20 hours, stayed about 20 minutes, back to C2 at 23:00 hours. Weather was clear but strong wind. The expedition returned to KTM on 27 October and leaving on Nov 02.

The ascent is the first one of the season.

Summiting Sherpas:
(1) Ang Kazi Sherpa, 29, Gudel-4, Tiu, Solukhumbu (Ama Dablam 2000 not sure)
(2) Gyalzen Sherpa, 43, Nimchula, VDC-5, Solukhumbu (Cho Oyu 2001?)
(3) Da Chyamba Sherpa, 36, address same of No. 02 (no idea)
(4) Pema Chhiri Sherpa, 30, Gudel-4, Tiu, Solukhumbu
(information about Sherpas from Prakash of Sherpa Summit.

Summit claim contradicted:

1 Nov 02: Steve Adamson, Canadian expedition leader, said his BC sirdar talked with Japanese team's Sherpas, who said they had gotten close to summit but not all the way to it. Sherpas had had to short rope the Japanese up the last part of their climb.

3 Nov 02: Robert Rackl, German expedition leader, said on the 19th he was watching Japanese team from his BC with binoculars and they reached a small peak at 6900m at about 4:30 pm. They were very late and at this slow rate of ascent, it would have taken them 2 more hours to reach highest summit.

4 Nov 02: French expedition leader, said on the 19th he was watching Japanese team from his BC with binoculars and they reached a small peak at 6900m at about 4:30 pm. They were very late and at their slow rate of ascent, it would have taken them 2 more hours to reach highest summit.