원정 개요

BC at 4200m on moraine on E side of East Annapurna Glacier
C1 at 5500m start of Glacier
C2 at 6200m on W Face
xxx at 6800m on NW Ridge

Route changed above C2 from original plan because not safe to go to Col between Gangapurna and Annapurna III; avalanche from Gangapurna and Annapurna III: avalanches from Gangapurna and too strong wind at Col. Went directly up W Face, which was mixed rock, snow and ice; no higher than 6800m on face because rope supply exhausted and needed 700m more rope to reach C3 site at 7000m on NW Ridge. Fixed route entirely from ABC, where were many crevasses above this camp to C2, and above C2 same crevasses and very steep face. Very good weather and members strong, so only reason for quitting climb was lack of rope. All down to ABC on 29 Sept.