원정 개요

Made ABC on first climb to C1, next time move camp from ABC site to C1 site. Climb ended early because Glebov not acclimatizing and could not go high, and Sherpa was reluctant to climb on rock (and told others team's payment to low). Belousov and Dorje Sherpa from Thami reached and crossed traverse which already had fixed ropes; Belousov told Dorje he himself would fix ropes above, but Dorje refused to go higher. Weather was perfect: warm sunshine, no wind; snowfell slightly only 31 Dec.

Belousov and Dorje went from C1 to 6000m to BC on 4 Jan. 5 Jan Glebov up to C1 alone with Belousov to follow on 6 Jan. 5 Jan Dorje would not go higher without more money and Glebova tired of being alone at BC; Glebov now acclimatized Ok, but attempt to make C2 and go to summit cancelled.

Want to come again next winter with more members, longer acclimatization, no climbing Sherpa. Considering Belousov and Glebov's experience, they think they can succeed.