원정 개요

* Klima and Benegas on top at 12:48, Chappell and Lama Zangbu at 13:45 - Chappal going very slowly. Lama Zangbu had summit Everest many times, is brother of Lhakpa Gyalu.


Damian Benegas - Nov 5, 2002

Oct 16 - Fly by Shangri La air lines at 8:30 am KTM Lukla, walk for 3
hrs to Phakting. Stay at the Namaste Lodge.
Oct 17 - Phakting to Namche. Walk for 2 hours to Monjo checkpoint and
have lunch across the bridge. Continue walking to Namche.
Total walking time. Stay at the Himalayan Lodge at the care of
Onu Sherpa in Namche.
Oct 18 - Namche->Dingboche. Stay at the Ama Dablam Lodge. The clients
departed early with Lama Zangbu and I departed later. Total
hours hike for me 2:10 hours. Clients felt great.
Oct 19 - Dingboche->Pangboche. Rain in the night but awesome in the
morning. Hike with the clients and have an awesome photoshoot.
Total time hours was 1 hours. First exposure to Ama Dablam
and high altitude 3900m. Stay at Paradise Lodge - at the care
of Ang Nuru.
Oct 20 - Rest day at Pangboche. I run to Namche in 1:59 hours and
return with some fresh bread and croissants in 2:35 hs. Of
course that I check email. The weather is getting better by
the day.
Oct 21 - Walk to Henry's base camp. Return to Pangboche. 3900m to 4700m
in 2:00 hrs stay and have dinner.
Oct 22 - Move to BC
Oct 23 - Client are feeling great - rest at BC, organize gear,
bouldering, very nice weather. Get report of condition on the
route. Many work in the lines are needed from C1 to C3. Fix
lines school day. Work on 2 short clips and on taking
advantage of short clip on traverses.
Oct 24 - Carry load to ABC at 5400m - and ascent of 700m in 2 hrs. Bill
took 2:30 hrs little headache. Set up one tent and return to BC
Oct 25 - Puja - rest day, organize gear, supplies and awesome bouldering
Oct 26 - Move to ABC - 3 hours. Clients are feeling great and the
weather is still holding. For how long?
Oct 27 - Move to C1 5700m. 2 hrs having a great time. For high altitude
we had bags of cooked rice and pasta with tomato sauce, also
some potatoes.
Oct 28 - Work up the ridge. Lama Zangbu carries to C3. Replace and fix
lines from C1 to C2. Almost 6 hours of hard work, pound more
pins than on a route on el Camp. Return to C1. Clients
performed fine on the lines. After return to C1, I return to BC
Zangbu stay on C1 with the members.
Oct 29 - Rest day on C1, I return to C1 with more pasta, some cake and
some more gas.
Oct 30 - Move to C3. Sun hits C1 at 6:24, so we get ready for a 8 am
depart time to C3. Have a replace a 40m of rope on the first
tower. We get crampons on C2 and then I replace 100 ms at the
base of the the grey tower, repair another 50ms. Get to the
mushroom ridge and have a difficult time - is getting late.
Zangbu stays with Danny and Bill goes ahead.
Total time for that day. Weather is very good but very cold.
Oct 31 - Some how the good weather of the past 10 days changed to a
very windy night at 3. Gust of intense wind all night. Wake up
at 6 am and wait to what will happen, once the sun hits the
valley - no clouds, so maybe will pass by.
By 7:30 am the wind is still very strong. Decided to go for it.
Very cold cold!
Departed at 8 am. Bill almost quit on me, so I had to get down
100 to talk him out. Just where very very cold. Shit my toes
were numb. Members were very slow. Past the Dablam and the wind
was less strong. Danny and I and Zangbu and Bill. Bill is going
very slow this time. I think the mountain is getting to him.
I summit at 12:48 and Bill and Zangbu summit at 13:45. Time
to get out of here. Shots and down. Hit C3.
Nov 1 - Very strong wind during the night, but not wind in the
morning. Walk at 6:00 am at get ready for 8 am departed time
for C1 to BC.
Took 7 hours to get down - what a nightmare to get to C1 at 15
pm. As soon as we get back we departed to BC. Arrived at 19:30
pm with Danny. A very long day.
Nov 2 - Rest at BC and packing
Nov 3 - BC -> Namche
Nov 4 - Namche -> Lukla
Nov 5 - Fly out -> KTM
Nov 6 - Leader flys out
Nov 7 - 2 members fly out

Notes: Also same day summit other members under Henry Todd permit:
Mr. Simon Piper
Robin Marriott and two Henry's Sherpas.

The mountain was very clean, but we took about 50 lbs of old ropes. Refixed all the ridge with better ropes and anchors.