원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 at 2 snow caves and tents slightly above NE Col
C2 where NE ridge starts getting steep
(1 big snow cave 20m onto E Face and 3 tents)
C3 at NE Ridge.

29th April Sirdar Wangel and Walde went from C1 to C2 and Ralf from BC to C2; all reached C2 area; Wangel was ahead, just a few meters from camp, when he set off slab avalanche and was carried 200m with avalanche down E Face; too dangerous to search for him on face and no sign of him.

At beginning of climb very good weather but later much snowfall with some avalanche danger & spent lot of time doing nothing. 11th May Ralf and Ingrid Baeyens of Polish team left C4 for top at 5:00 am and Ralf on top at 11:00 am and Ingrid at 1:30 pm. On last part of ascent, from 7500m to 8000m, Dujmovits and Baeyens went onto N Face for safer climb.

Joos and Dacher were one day behind summiters but Dacher turned back at 7000m on 10th and Joos got to area needing 2 ice axes but had only one and turned back at 7200m (other ice ax and other gear Joos says, should have been available from summiters but they stayed an extra day in C3 and that ruined the plan). Walde too was going up and got to 7200m.

Six members and Schleypen from Polish team left BC 6th May having decided climb was over for them (Schleypen had frostbite). Walde wanted to try again but no one else did and Polish team also leaving. Left BC 13th May.