원정 개요

Expedition flew KTM-Pokhara-Jomsom and arrived Jomsom 28 June. They then split into two teams, one to climb Arniko Chuli and the other for Saribung.

Saribung team consisted of Okuda and Mrs Kobayashi as climbers with Tul Bahadur Tamang accompanying them to base camp but to do no climbing. They left Jomsom on 29 June. Leader Ohnishi accompanied the Arniko Chuli team.

Approach: north and east via Chuksang (Chhusang), Tange and Yara villages, then southeast via Luri Gompa, Guma Thati to Nakkali Damodar Kunda base camp at 5375m north-northeast of the mountain. Arrived at base camp on 12 July.

Climb: on 14 July moved to high camp at 5700m south of base. On 17th July Okuda and Mrs Kobayashi attempted to climb Saribung and went up northwest snow slope; reached col at 6068m (according to GPS - Nepalese government's map gives altitude as 6042m), from where their route ascended North Ridge. But now they were in a white-out, so instead of climbing further, they turned around and retreated all the way to base camp the same day. Saribung climb was now abandoned.

Trek away from base camp: 18 July this team plus Arniko Chuli team left base camp on 18 July to returned to Jomsom. Trekked via Yara, Tange, Chuksang (Chhusang). Reached Jomsom 22 July.

Note: Official government altitudes for the two mountains are 6039m for Arniko Chuli and 6346m for Saribung. Ohnishi's GPS measurements gave altitudes of 6034m and 6328m, respectively.

Saribung attempt by Mrs Kobayashi and Okuda July 17 to Col at 6068m then white-out and descended. Were on northwest slope. From Col would have ascended North Ridge. Tul Bahadur Tamang went with them to BC but did no climbing.