원정 개요

BC at Phunki Drangka below Phunki Glacier
ABC on North Face
1 biv on North Face
High point on North Face.

First ABC pitched at 5100m 17 April and down to BC 18th. 2 men 20th to ABC and 21st tried to attack summit, got to 5800m, felt altitude with "little headache" and down to BC 22nd. 26 April up to ABC which had been broken by avalanche and back to BC same day. 28th night up to make another ABC. 29th morning made new ABC at 5500m. 30th 7:00 pm up from ABC (both members) and biv at 6000m at 3:15 pm on 1 May. 2 May up at 6:00 am and reached 6300m at 8:00 pm. Weather getting bad with snowfalling and many small avalanches of snow and could find no safe biv site, so down to ABC, arriving 3rd 6:00 am. Climb finished: too exhausted and no time left for another attempt. Reached BC 4th and left BC 5th to trek to Kalapattar. "This route needs speed, but we don't have enough speed." Like to try SWest Face after 2 years. North Face "technically not so difficult but requires speed." Face all snow and hard ice with no biv site above 6000m. Climbed in pure alpine style.