원정 개요

BC near lake above Gorak Shep
C1 at SE Face
C2 at below East Col
C3 on Col.

Three non-summiting members went only to 6100m (on 27th and 29th March) and then abandoned their attempt to climb higher. They had started later then the others because of Griscelli's respiratory illness, which delayed them. There they decided it was too dangerous from falling seracs to stay longer.

The three summiters were "very lucky" and got to top without harm, but while they were high on the East Ridge, a fairly big fall of seracs from lower on the ridge came down the route. Perrier brothers were extremely exhausted in their descent through much new snow.

Garcia: in 2 weeks at mountain no avalanches on route but were to left and right. Don't know about falling seracs mentioned by Rambaud. Difficult to find safe route between huge crevasse on right and danger from hanging seracs from 5800m to 6380m. Summiters left BC at midnight of 5 April and 12 hours later were in C2; 6 April left C2 at 6:30 am and reached summit after surmounting icefall and skirting big crevasses or crossing them somehow. On top at 1:50 pm; down to C2 to sleep. 7th to BC and Pheriche same day. Were very tired on 6th and 7th, but knew Yaks had been ordered for 7th so kept going. Garcia and Perrier brothers never slept in C1, just used it to deposit gear.