원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 at NE Col
C2 on NE Ridge
Biv on NE Ridge
Depot on NE Ridge.

For 1st 2 weeks separated out of Italian BC because of porter problems and moved to normal site only when Germans arrived and could use their porters (and now less snow). On 24th Wielicki went to summit from biv tent at 7000m (found from previous expedition) at 4:20 am and got to top 10:50 am and back to biv at 1:20 pm and down to BC same day (2 members were with him as far as biv and back).

30th April other 2 members made deposit at 7450m and that night tent crushed by snow; had to cut it open to get out and for them climb finished (Schleypen left BC). Gniadek not well now.

Baeyens started 9th May up on normal route with Dujmovits of German team, using depot to sleep in enroute and got to top later than him and came down exhausted.

9th May 10 pm Wielicki started from NE Col; had to spend 2-3 hrs at 7800m trying to overcome difficult ice section on which kept slipping 1-2m (most difficult problem ever encountered; feared he could not solve it) and reacehd ridge 3:00 pm on 10th, when it started to snow; now decided not to go on up because of snowfall and was exhausted; retreated to depot/C3, surprised to find 2 people there and went down to biv where reached 8:00 pm and slept there; for first time in his career felt someone were with him; believe this is from great stress (not just difficulty) and looking for companionship.