원정 개요

BC at 5200m at above Gorak Shep near a small lake
ABC at 5420m at bottom of SE Face
C1 at 5640m on South Face at top rib
Highpoint at 5900m on SE Face.

Originally intended to climb SW Ridge, but when got to mountain, saw conditions were good on SE Ridge so made no attempt via SW Ridge. C1 safe site on rock. Carried to 5900m and made cache here, below C2 side, probably 150m below C2 site. Now started snowing every evening; slept at C1 night. On morning of 21 April, Carter had extreme pain in both shoulders so all down to BC assisting him. Stayed BC while snow falling daily and then avalanche danger too great to move up since up above 18,500 ft 14 inches or more new snow. Yaks coming 2nd May, so decided 30 April to make no further attempt to climb.