원정 개요

BC at normal site above Samagaon
C2 much higher than normal
C3 at north plateau.

Took long time to occupy C3 because Sirdar Dawa Tsering had bad fall from 7300m trying to fix route to C3 when fierce wind blew them off route. Ice screws came out from soft ice, took Kila Pemba with him, fell 150m down steep ice, but not hurt much and down clothing shredded; in evening very shaky; "a miracle" they survived. Arrived C3 4:00 pm 20 April; left C3 for top at 1:00 am on 21st in very cold and strong wind: 2 Norwegians, Andrew Lock of Australia, and Sherpas Kilu Pemba and Dawa Tshering on top 9:30 am, struggling in snow underfoot or hard ice with strong wind but "we equipped it." On top all together. Had fixed 200m ropes in new route up to North Peak to avoid icefall and avalanching seracs; no rope up to top to save time. Fixed the 2000m from C1 to C3. Down to C3 for night; arrived 3:00 pm after 1 hour on top.

Second twins to 8000m top together (Burgess twins on top Dhaulagiri May 81).

Summit Sherpas:
Kilu Pemba, Beding, 21, 1st 8000er
Dawa Tshering, Beding, 31, Cho Oyu X4, Everest X3, Broad Peak