원정 개요

BC 100m below icefall
C1 half way up steep section below Makalu La
C2 at Maklu La
C3 on north side of NW Ridge (400m below).

Route from BC to C1 direct and to east of rock barrier in middle of Chago Glacier. 17th April to BC to rest. Then bad weather period (morning wind, afternoon snowfall began and very cold). Left BC 21 April to C1. 22nd fixed to Makalu La's C2 and back to BC 23rd. Left BC again to C1 25th and bad weather and back to BC same day. Left BC 3 May to C1, 4th to C2, 6th to 7800m: too cold to summit so back to BC same day. 13 May to C1, 14th to C2, 15th made C3 at 7700m before on icefall, 16th across seracs to small plateau before couloir, up couloir and then to left to top via final section of NW Ridge. Left C3 at 2:30 am: all 6 members and Dorje ("Big Dorje" from Thamo). Valencia and Gutierrez turned back at 8000m, tired and incipient altitude sickness by Gutierrez and slept in C3 while other 4 members and Dorje to top 10:30 am and met Valencia and Gutierrez at 1:30 pm at point where had stopped. Summiters stayed on top 1-1/3 hours in light wind and clouds below the down to BC by all summiters except Pasaban to C3. 17 May Pasaban to BC and two due to weakness went to BC on 18th. Difficult mountain, impossible in wind.

Swiss team's Reichen on top with this team; Joos later.

Enroute to BC before team reached Tashigaon, they were stopped by six Maoists who had pistols, rifles, grenades; were very young men or boys; they took Rs 5000 and a camera from each member.