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International Makalu Expedition 2002

Makalu · 2002 · 봄 (1) · Poland

원정 개요

BC at Korean BC
C1 below the seracs
C2 at Makala La - left side of the col.

Seven members started from C3 between 04:00-06:00 hours. Gablik [and Velez] reached summit at 15:00 hours and sent 20 minutes; returned to C3 at 20:00 hours without oxygen. Pustelnik reached summit at 13:30 hours, spent 30 minutes, returned to C3 at 18:00 hours. He used oxygen from C3 to summit and minutes and back to C3 at 23:00 hours.

Fregona reached up to 7900m due to bronchitis, got back to C3. Pawlowski also reached to 7900m and returned to C3 due to bronchitis. Sieger returned from 8000m due to exhaustion. Zaluski also returned from 8200m due to exhaustion.

Two members Sieger and Zaluski made second attempt on May 18. Sieger returned back from just below 40m and Zaluski from 8200m due to bad weather. Miss Czerwinska said she did not try because the last camp was too low to attempt from for her. Pustelnik said that it was mistake to put C3 that low. They did not know that there is good place still above the existing C3.

The other expedition: Basque, Italian before the Pustelnik team.

Pustelnik will try next autumn south side of Manaslu.

The team arrived KTM on May 23 and most the members will be leaving by 24th.

Oxygen:
Gablik: not taken, not used
Pustelnik: used from C3 to summit and while returning - finished
Velez: not taken, not used.

Caughron:

Pustelnik said Caughron may have died due to cold while bivouacing. Pustelnik and other members buried the body about 30 meters below place where the dead body of Caughron found.


Norbert Joos, Swiss team leader - 22 May 02

While Joos and Reichen were climbing towards Makalu La (generally considered to be at 7400m), they met Caughron, who was exhausted but determined to reach Makalu La, his personal goal. The Swiss passed him and camped at Makalu La, spent the night there in a terrible storm, and while descending on April 26th, found Caughron dead at about 7200m.

  • 내부 원정 ID4077
  • 원본 EXPIDMAKA02102
  • 대장Piotr Pustelnik
  • 루트 (Route)Makalu La-NW Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8485m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 12명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Piotr Czeslaw PustelnikPolandLeader성공사용-
Floriano CastelnuovoItalyClimber---
Raymond David CaughronUSAClimber--사망
Anna Barbara CzerwinskaPolandClimber---
Peter FranovicSlovakiaClimber---
Diego FregonaItalyClimber---
Martin GablikSlovakiaClimber성공--
Ryszard Jan PawlowskiPolandClimber---
Jay SiegerUSAClimber---
Vladimir (Vlado) StrbaSlovakiaClimber---
Gonzalo Manuel Sobral Blanco VelezPortugalClimber성공--
Dariusz Jerzy ZaluskiPolandClimber---

출처·참고문헌

· 2002 · 잡지 (3) · HIGH
Gor FankaCzerwinska, Anna · 2002 · 단행본 (1) ·
http://www.k2news.com/makaludisindex.htm · 2002 · 웹사이트 (5) ·