원정 개요

Swiss opened way to C1 and Spanish-Italian teams followed them. Joos knew route from 2001: direct line northeast side of rock in middle of Chago Glacier. Night of 25th horrible stormy night, worst Joos ever experienced. 26th down to BC. More than a week in BC with hell weather. Up again 4 May to C2 with plan to go to top from C2 5 May but bad decision on line to take on north side so down to BC on 5th in same day. Another week bad weather. 14th up from BC to C2. 15th from C2 to C3 and made camp there at 7600m at bottom of steep face on Tibetan side. 16th Reichen to top with Italian Silvio Mondinelli at 10:30 am having left C3 at 3:00 am. Joos on top at 12:30 pm in nice weather. Joos not full strength because not keeping down food and water. Both down to BC same day at 5:30 pm (Reichen) and 8:00 pm (Joos).

Team enroute to BC held up at Tashigaon, the last village, by men with rifles but not in uniform claiming to be Maoists. Demanded Rs 10,000 and 1 camera from each person and gave receipts which trekking agent said were not genuine Maoist receipts, which are printed and rubber stamped.