원정 개요

Lock came to Lhotse from Manaslu directly: he used Todd's camps, food ropes and thus not really independent climber.

Lock rested in BC, 1 to 3 May then to C2 directly on 4 May using Henry Todd's ABC where Todd's staff provided food. 5 May to C3 again in Henry Todd's tent but own food. 6 May left gear at C2 and down to BC. Weather not right for summit attempt, so sat in BC reading books. 12 May to C2. 14th to C3, 15th to C4 and Todd's tent. Left C4 1:00 am 16 May (1 hour after Koreans), up couloir, steep but not seriously, to top up slightly loose rock, in slight wind which was very cold. On top 9:20 am, after Koreans but before all others. Down to C2 at 6:30 pm. 17 May to BC. Really tired coming down to C2 without any oxygen. Left BC on 18 May.

Lock: BC(30/04),C2(04/05),C3(05/05),C4(15/05,7800m),Smt(16/05)


Mellor and Mingma Nuru left C4 for summit on 17 May at 1:30 am, were on top at 11:00 am (Mellor) and 11:30 am (Mingma Nuru) and down to C3 same day, and then helped Eross of Todd's Everest team descend.

Morris got to C4 on 24th at 2:00 am, found tent had been stolen so down to BC same day.