원정 개요

C3 above Great Shelf.

Planned all climing finished 13th Dec but because of cold and wind climbing prolonged. 13th up to 8300m but very strong wind and cold defeated this summit bid and all to C3 except Jin and 2 Sherpas, Ang Dawa Sherpa and Tchiring Thebe Lama to C4. 20th the 3 men 4:30 am started up, 2:30 pm cloudy and windy and worried about returning late but kept going up and reached summit 4:05 pm (if turned back at 2:30 would be dark by time reached C4 anyway - had headlamps). 5 mins rest and photos at top. At 4:14 pm leader at BC talking with sirdar; base and sirdar stopped talking and Kim tried to talk to summit Sherpa but no answer; men in C4 also tried to contact summiter but also received no answer all night. 21st search by men in C4 and C1 but no trace. Probably 3 summiters fell down N Face. No avalanching and could not be seen 21st morning in clear but windy weather. No snowfall during windy night of 20th.

1st summit bid leader and Sherpas used oxygen at and above C4 and other members except Jin used it climbing above C4.

2nd summit bid Jin used oxygen sleeping in C4 and climbing above C4, but Sherpas used it only sleeping.

Kim finds it difficult to accept that Jin is dead, that he is not just late coming back from N Face.