원정 개요

BC at normal site just below start of glacier
ABC at 1st site - 15 May 6100m (moved here)
C2 at 1-1/2 km from C1
C3 (left small tent here but then used C3 BC)
C3B on Great Shelf

Delayed getting to campsites because of frequent snowfall. Camps at C3, C3B, and C4 on Great Shelf where lot of crevasses. Hruby down from 8050m on 13 May in first attempt to top because incipient frostbite in toes and fingers, so waited in C4 for others. In in C4 small tent without sleeping bags; reached C4 12th 2:00 pm (was snowing heavily) and three left C4 at 1:00 am on 13th. Minarik on top at 4:00 pm; Jaros turned back about 100m above camp not feeling well. 14th Jaros tried again at 1:00 am and on top abut 12:00 noon. Minarik to C3 B 14th; down to BC night of 14th by Minarik and Hruby. Jaros at BC at 6:00 and pm of 15th.