원정 개요

BC west of Gaugiri.

Actually got to BC on 23 May and bived, but porters and cook had gone to lakes and gompas south of there and went away to meet staff and return to set up camp. 26th and 27th snowfall so stayed in BC till 28th morning in relatively good weather. 28 May at 7:30 am left camp to make ascent via SW Ridge. Steep 45-55 degrees in sections of snow that was good underfoot; narrow ridge of 2 ft some places, 5 ft width with some loose rock sections also. Impossible to fix rope on route; "nice long classic route" (Frush).

Gaugiri right on Tibetan border and dominates area, high peak of a long southeast rRidge and great views of Tibet. Got to top at 1:20 pm and back 4:30-5:00 pm after an hour on top enjoying dramatic views including Dhaulagiri. No vegetation in region which is extremely arid, so local people don't go there to graze.