원정 개요

ABC at normal site
C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in West Cwm
C3 on West Face
C4 at South Col.

"Trekkers" Nuptse climbers: Hart couple (not fit enough, never above BC and left expedition 10 April).

Dean with Fowler to C1 on 12 April and to C2 site on 13 April and back same day to C1 and BC 14 April and left BC 15 April. Smith to top of Icefall with Dean and Fowler and turned around and return to BC same day and on 15th left BC. [Both Dean and Smith only intended to go through Khumbu Icefall].

For Everest climb: Ponder twisted knee 9th above BC at bottom of Icefall, tore tendons and needed treatment in KTM so left BC in helicopter on 11 May. So now 5 members for Everest climb. C1 slept in C1 on 13th in beginning of serious climb. Set out for top from C4 at 11:45 pm of 15th: Colyer very slow turned back on South Summit at about 11:30 am with Changba Sherpa at the time the summiters returned from top so all down together to C4 at 2:30 to 8:30 pm, Fowler and Ponce de Leon last because had waited at balcony where weather now quite windy and wind blowing snow, so visibility poor weather had changed from balcony to poor at about 2:00 pm. All to C2 and Sherpas down to C1 and radioed back to C2 that dangerously warm down in Cwm and ladders in Cwm and Icefall unsteady so members stayed in C2 for night. Members in BC morning of 18th.

Oxygen: sleeping in C3 by Holt, Bird, Colyer, Fowler and Ponce de Leon, (no Sherpas, did not even sleep in in C3); to C4 by Holt, Bird and Colyer only; in C4 sleeping by Holt, Bird, Fowler, Ponce de Leon and 3 Sherpas of summit bid; C4 to top: all who went up towards top and down to C4; Bird, Colyer and Holt to C3.

Holt went to C4 with summit party but did not go above C4 because of knee problem which required no medical attention.

About 30 people on top at same times as these summiters, at 10:45 am.