원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in West Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col.

Summit party left C4 for top at 10:00 pm on 17th. 14 people turned back at almost 28,700 ft, Marshall ahead of them at just below start of Hillary Step and others spreadout from these down to point 100 ft short of South Summit, all at about same altitude. Summit attempt cancelled due to some of woman beginning to weaken, but for all the reason to go down was storm was building up 18 May by 6:00 am. Norton and Karma Rita on top at 8:00 am despite clouds and then wind blowing new snow falling so visibility was practically nil (but fixed ropes visable); everyone returned to Col safely. Women's group was guided party and leader cautious.


Email from David Hahn to Miss Hawley - June 15, 2002

It wasn't 11 members going for the summit. Our intention was to have the five guided clients, the three guides and the photographer. This would have been a total of nine members, so I'm not sure who the other two on your list would have been, but they were not climbing high in any case. As it turned out, one of the clients, Midge Cross turned around just above C3. All of the others: Alison Levine, Jody Thompson, Lynn Prebble, and Kim Clark, along with the three guides: Ben Marshall, Lisa Rust and myself, and the photographer: Jake Norton went on to C4 and left that night 10 pm on May 17) for the summit giving a total of eight members.

Mmmm ... frightening to see how quickly my memory is deteriorating. I can't name all of them just now. There were eight who left high camp, a ninth (Ang Passang from Carricola?) stayed at C4 in support. Of the eight that went up, Panuru (from Phortse) was in charge. His brother, Danuru was along (he had made the top on the 16th), Phu Nuru from Phortse climbed, Pemba Tenzing was along, as was Ang Gialu. There was Karma Rita, who made it to the top with Jake, and I'm having trouble coming up with the last two names. They were not any of the climbers from the 16th who made the top and they were not Ang Pasang from Pangboche or Phuru, the ABC cook, or Phinzo from Phortse. We had 17 Sherpas total, above BC and this eliminates eight of them.. so of the remaining nine, eight were used, six are named and two are eluding me .. two out of the remaining three on the overall list .. which I don't have right now .. not sure this helps. sorry

I did not use it [oxygen] until we started climbing for C4 in the morning. All other members used it for sleeping at C3 and then for climbing to C4.

Everybody used it continuously climbing to C4, in C4, up from C4 to respective highest points, sleeping again in C4, continuously above C3. All Sherpas used it continuously at C4 and above.