원정 개요

C1 at 6100m top of Icefall
C2 at 6400m in West Cwm
C3 at 7300m on Lhotse Face
C4 at 7900m at South Col.

1st summit attempt from C4 15 May 9:30 pm and 10:30 pm and 3 Hungarians (Acs, Erros, Mecs) at after 4:00 am; Eross just below South Summit, Acs balcony and South Summit and Mecs below; were not on oxygen and hadn't enough strength. Morris, Stanford and Peeters and 4 Sherpas and all to top at Morris 9:00 am, Stanford 10:30 am, Peeters 11:00 am and Sherpas within same period and all in C4; 17th May down mountain: Acs serious pulmonary edema and walked down to yellow band 7500m and dragged down to C3 for night and walked to C2; others down to C2 but Eross went to BC.

2nd Summit party left C4 at 10:30 pm 24 May: Eross and Varkonyi without Sherpas; Eross summited with oxygen towards last part of ascent (altitude not known) and problem, down to C4; arrived at top alone and after Hillary party and South Col for night; 26th BC. Varkonyi to South Summit with no oxygen and slept at Col and BC 26th.

Acs used oxgyen during his descent when sick.

Sherpa summiters
Pasang Dawa, Pangboche, 18/1/77
Pasang Tshering, Pangboche, 26, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2
Gurmin Dorje, 4/8/2033, 27 years old, Pangboche, 1st 8000er
Lhakpa Chhiri, aka Sonam as a monk, 28, Pangboche, 1st 8000er

Leader Henry Todd was banned by HMG in 2002 from entering Nepal for 2 years, so he had his Everest and Lhotse team by walkie-talkie from North Col in Tibet, with visits to KTM before and after climbs in late March early April and again in late May-early June. Ban ended 1 June 2002.

Peter Legate's death. On 30 April he was descending from C3 following Varkonyi. Varkonyi looked around one time and saw Legate sliding down the mountain, hit the top lip of the bergschrund and plunged into it. His body too far down to retrieve and is still there. Why he fell is unknown; somehow he was not fixed onto the ropes.


BC - Nepal - Mountaineering
British Climber dies on Everest
BY Hawley

Kathmandu, April 30 (Reuters) - A British mountaineer was killed in a fall while climbing Mount Everest April 30, the Nepalese tourism ministry announced April 30.

Peter Legate, 38 year-old British business manager who lived in Lymington, Hampshire, plunged to his death at 6:30 in the morning while descending from his expedition's third high-altitude camp after having helped to fix ropes along the climbing route.

Most expeditions place their third camps at altitude of about 7400m (24,280 ft).

Legate lost his footing and slipped 200 meters (655 ft) down the mountainside, the ministry said. His body landed inside a crevasse.

Legate was not married.

Legate's death brings to 173 the total number of climbers who have died on Everest. He is the 13th Briton to die on expedition to the world's highest mountain.