원정 개요

Biv 1 at North Col
Biv 2
High point at near Second Step.

13 May to ABC for summit bid. 14th to North Col and up entirely alpine style with no fixed camps. 14 May biv at Col, 15 May to 7000m, biv and 11:15 pm (NST) start for top by both Studers alone 16th 3:00 am arrived at 8300m, atop for 1-1/2 hours to wait for others to move up; 4:30 am started up to ridge, on 1st Step close to 2nd Step at 10:00 am, stopped 8650m for half hour, and 10:30 am Wilfried had pain in feet and now too late to reach top and return to 7900m, so down to ABC same day, arrived at ABC 10:00 am. Were one day too early: on 17th route was open and not so crowded. Pain in feet from which all toes had been amputated may due to lack of oxygen or load too heavy. Made no further bid for top because not strong enough without oxygen. 18-20th bad weather again and decided not to try at all 21 May.