원정 개요

C1 at North Col.

On 15 May Nawang Thile (aka Pemba) climbed to C4 fixing ropes, fixed them above C4 and slept in C4. Other summit Sherpas and Tibetans slept in C3 night of 15th and climbed from C3 to C4 on 16th, arriving at C4 before 2:00 am (NST) to join rest of summit party and all then went up from C4 together. 4 members dropped out of summit bid: Valloton at 8400m (was using no oxygen and she was too cold without it); Rizzi at 8500m (too tired, too slow and too late to succeed safely); Wirth (also too slow and too late); and Mueller at 8800m (1:30 pm now and Kobler told him it was too late to succeed safely and he must go back down); during his descent got to 8500m at 8:00 pm, after dark and just stopped where he was and went to sleep for the night and suffered no frostbite.

Successful summiters Baumann, Chassot, Dibona, Kobler, Merat, Wellig, Nawang Thile, Tashi and Pemba Sherpas, and Tibetans Awang and Pasang reached top between 10:00 am and 12:30 pm. All summiters slept in C4 that night except Baumann, who went down to C3 for the night. This was expedition's only summit attempt.

2 members left: Jten never went above BC, had no motivation and left expedition, 20 April; Meyer got intestinal infection and left expedition 7 May.

Oxygen: Valloton used none at all; all other members in summit party used it climbing from C3 to C4, sleeping in C4 on 15th night, climbing to summit and back to C4 and sleeping in C4. Nawang Thile above C2 both days, to top on 16th and back to top; other summit Sherpas and Tibetans climbing from C3 to C4, not while sleeping in C4, climbing from C4 to top and back to C4 but again not sleeping in C4.

Summit Sherpas:
Nawang Thile (aka Pemba), 1950, Beding, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X8
Tashi, 18/4/79, Beding, Everest 2001, Cho Oyu 1998
Pemba, Taksindu, Nov 1972, Everest 1999

Kobler has no information about the two Tibetans, who were from Tibetan Mountaineering School in Lhasa; both were with him on Cho Oyu in April 2001.