원정 개요

C1 at North Col.

17 May summit party Yamada and Phurba Tashi left C4 at 1:30 am NST and top 6:30 am and down to ABC at 5:30 pm.

25 May summit party of Tamura and Phurba Tashi again left C4 at 11:45 pm on 24 May and on top at 5:45 am and down to ABC that night. Phurba Tashi joined in carrying down camps being cleaned but on arrival at ABC a little tired but "looked fine" says Tamura. Now climb finished.

Rope fixing: Koreans from ABC to North Col, Brice Sherpa from Col to 7400m, Kobler's Sherpas from 7900m to 8300m; in spots above C4 by Brice and Kobler Sherpas. Total 7000m charged $25 per person and most teams agreed at meetings; those who refused: Higuchi, Skripko (Higuchi's sirdar refused)

Oxygen: used by Yamada on 16 May from 7500m to 8300m, sleeping in C4 at 8300m, climbing from C4 to summit to ABC (team had plenty of oxygen and using it made descent faster); Phurba Tashi used it sleeping in C4 to top to 8300m. On 24-25 May Tamura and Phurba Tashi followed wage pattern of member and of Phurba Tashi again.

Sherpa Summiter:
Phurba Tashi, Khumjung, 24/5/71, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X3 -
His ascent on 25 May counts as a second ascent in May 2002.

Members who left expedition early:

1. Chung: left 13 May reached North Col but had mental block about
going any higher. His mental attitude would not allow him to go
higher and he developed mild psychosomatic illness.

2. Marino left 12 May because of pinched shoulder.

3. Morton, 68 years old, left 17 May. Got to North Col only and stopped
climbing when he realized this was his altitude limit.

4. Ochoa left 17 May. Didn't like Brice telling him what to do, although
Brice had hired him to be a guide. He never went higher than 7200m
and quit. Refused to help Yamada to climb after Brice told him to
help Yamada, go up but not all the way to summit with him - ego problem.