원정 개요

C1 at North Col.

Summit party of 3 left C3 at 11:30 pm 23 May and at 5:30 am (NST) were 50m below top (light coming), when Curnis oxygen mast broke and changed twice from Moro's. Finally on top at 1:15 pm with no clouds, warm, no wind; stayed on top without using oxygen and there and down without oxygen to be able to see where to put feet. Moro down to ABC 12:00 noon while Curnis and Mingma to C3, where Curnis used oxygen again to sleep (Mingma used from C3 to top and to C3 but not in C3). Curnis on 25 May to ABC same day without oxygen. Curnis oldest person to climb to top; Ishikawa, Japanese 26 days older, was pushed and carried to top.

Wonderful condition on mountain to descend (South side) but Nepal LO, Ministry of Tourism official knew of Moro's plan; Moro talked to trekking agent by phone about 22 May and learned Moro's plan was known to Tourism officials. Official waiting at BC, so abandoned idea and descended north side. Only 2 members went to Everest: Moro and Curnis.